Loved Ingredients

This article is a continuation of my recipes with Bulgarian greens and of a story I wrote about Crete last October and its precious wild greens emblematic for the Cretan diet, an inseparable part of the live eating culture on the island nowadays. Purslane is a beloved summer green with succulent leaves and is described as a magical plant in antiquity. It is common in the Mediterranean countries and is found in Bulgaria too. A valuable weed rich in protective nutrients that we could have at hand in the hot summer weeks. While walking on the cobbled stone paths in Milies village in Pelion and coming across the weed in my feet, my Greek friend told me a curious story that this was the only plant nominated with a Goddess in ancient Greece. So precious!

I love it for its green grassy flavours and the many possibilities for pairing with other flavours, just by holding a bunch in my hand the taste ideas start flowing effortlessly. I appreciate it for its being also nutrient dense with anti-inflammatory and immune system stimulating capacity. It aids our digestion flow and is beneficial for the skin. It is unique with its Omega 3 content, and also with the abundance of tocopherols in the form of vit. E known for their antioxidant activity (circa 80% of RDA per 100g).

Vit. C is also at good levels (25% of RDA) and when consumed fresh its effect is maximized in combination with other veggies (e.g. tomatoes). Vit. A is common for purslane as well. The green is with a low calorific value of 20 kcal per 100g and is also a good source of Magnesium (19% of RDA). People with kidney stones issues, however, need to be more careful as it contains some oxalate.

In a nutshell, that green gem is a must for our summer plates! I found in on the market in Sofia and have been experimenting with it these last two weeks. So here come some ideas for my seasonal pairings. Purslane loves EVOO too and combining different olive oil profiles with it was pretty enjoyable. I brought some EVOOs from my last Greek trip and was a genuine delight to connect their flavors with the ones of the purslane.

Eggs love purslane, a discovery that could make anyone’s senses happy. I chopped the greens coarsely and added them to the almost cooked scrambled eggs. 1-2 min. more and this summer kind of omelette is done. We don’t need to overdo the cooking for the greens to preserve the flavours and their full benefits. I added some very aromatic Cretan oregano with deep sunny flavours and a spicy paprika that I brought from Ayvalik in Turkey, the two for an extra boost of the egg mix. Apart from the simpler EVOO that I used for frying the eggs, I chose a complex Picual with some radiant green and riper fruity notes to give the dish a final special touch. And a spicy kick as the Picual variety is famous for its prominent Pungency. 

In summary, for 2 people I would suggest 4 large eggs (I break them directly in the pan heated with a t.s. of EVOO, to keep their flavours and texture more intact) and 2 handfuls of chopped purslane. A fine drizzle of an EVOO with pronounced characteristics just before serving the dish. Oregano, paprika and sea salt go as per one’s taste, yet I would go for a more generous approach to give that richness and lusciousness of the seasonal eggs as only the sunny Summer could do for us.

Another idea is to pair purslane with some classics ~ pasta with a tomato sauce. I adore tomatoes and when sunny, sweet and from the garden the sauce turns magic. It is very balanced and natural in its sweetness and acidity, sometimes the acidity level could be problematic when the tomatoes are just not right and from a “nursery”. Purslane, I assure you, loves that combination too. I experimented with two types of dry pasta ~ one with eggs in the dough and the other one without and requiring 10-12 min. of boiling until al dente. My strong recommendation would go for a durum wheat pasta w/o eggs, just semolina, water and salt as the flavours are concentrated and clean and when combined with the tomatoes and greens they get this magic completeness. A perfection!

I open a bracket here that I’m “fanatic” about pasta and the pasta to be right ~ to be from durum wheat/semolina flour and cooked al dente. It makes such a difference in the taste, but also how our body and digestion appreciate its beneficial properties. I still remember the words of my Italian boss during my working in Moscow ~ “a dry pasta boiled less than 12 min. is not right”. Certainly, as any other Italian he was very sensitive to the topic of pasta and food in general, but also had had some years in the pasta business and knew a lot about the secrets of a good pasta. The durum wheat which is not common world-wide (around 10% of the world production) is specific with the hardness of the grain and unlike the bread softer varieties of wheat, the gluten is not released so effortlessly from the endosperm, therefore the “gluten grid” is not so solid. It is rarely used for bread making (except for some local breads in the south of Italy, also I’ve tasted such in Greece) as the structure of the bread  remains very compact and solid.

The al dente cooked pasta is an art, and I’ve seen it by myself that this art is acquired with patience and experience during the years. And now, just a bite tells me immediately if it is right or not😊When biting a penne for instance the sensation is as if it is slightly hard, yet delightfully elastic without having the notion of flour in the centre. When the pasta or the risotto are cooked al dente not only the flavour perception is enjoyable and richer, but also the digestion is eased and the glycaemic index is lower dur to the lower levels of released starch. The latter is due to the structure of the grain of the durum wheat varieties of wheat ~ the starch gets “capsulated” in the gluten grid. One more tip is the water we boil the pasta to be “with the taste of the sea” as the Italians say.

Coming back to our pasta with purslane, let me share a few details around the sauce itself and the pasta type I would choose for this dish. For 2 people I take 2 large sweet garden tomatoes, discard the skin and dice them (cubes 1 x 1 cm). I simmer the tomatoes for around 20 min. to thicken. Usually the summer varieties of sweet tomatoes have sufficient pulp and don’t require much time to lose the water. Only then I add some EVOO (a t.s. per person), some sea salt and pepper to taste, a mountain herb mix (thyme, oregano) and 2-3 cloves of garlic for the lovers of its flavours. Another 10 min. at low heat and the base sauce is ready. Alternatively, one might add some caper (buds or fruit) and de-pitted olives (I prefer normally salted taggiasca), or a pinch of pepperoncino. For the tomato ~ purslane pairing I would leave the sauce simple, just tomatoes, spices and herbs. In winter I use sunny home preserved tomatoes in a jar and follow the same steps. What always makes a difference in the taste of the sauce is to leave it for 10-15 min. aside with a lid, to rest and all the flavours to bond in harmony.

As mentioned earlier for the tomato sauce pasta recipes I prefer a dry pasta (pasta secca) to a fresh one (pasta fresca). I take 80-100g of dry pasta per person that normally doubles its size when boiled. 100g of boiled pasta is circa 160kcal, the carbs being 31% in average. Together with the tomatoes and purslane it is a very balanced and wholesome meal, calory-wise is much admissible as well. I choose penne, or paccheri, or orecchiette, or any shape that could “hold” some of the sauce so one has this delightfully rich juicy sensation. In this recipe I used a traditional durum wheat pasta I brought from Pelion called touritellia that had similar “sauce holding” effect😊

A generous handful of purslane leaves that I add on top of the mixed pasta and sauce, along with 1-2 t.s. of grated Parmigiano Reggiano. What makes a true difference and adds some vigor and freshness is an EVOO with pronounced characteristics for a final touch. In this case I chose Amfissis early harvest from Pelion with well-expressed herbaceous and fresh cut grass notes on the nose and some ripe tomato and green apple on the palate. This oil has a medium Pungency that complements ideally the tomato sauce.

And finally, let me finish with some extra greenness and share a loving avocado ~ purslane combination. A cream ideal for an energizing breakfast. The different here is that I add finely chopped purslane (in case the stems are very solid I discard them, if they are fine, a chop all together) and some sumac to give a special sensation to the avocado cream. A touch of lemon, sea salt crystals and 2 t.s. of a highly pungent EVOO with well expressed green notes of green almond, olive and dandelion leaves. I chose the Cretan Tsounati variety here with a very elegant and persistent body that lasts and thus pairs fantastically with the avocado ~ purslane combination. And this green green and luscious cream is ready. With some bread or/and poached eggs it goes perfectly for breakfast of for a light lunch.

Purslane is a versatile green, it could enrich many different dishes with its greenness and nutritious benefits. And its deliciousness is enormous, imagination flies too.

I wish you an ultimate delight for the senses!

~ we are what we live ~ we are what we eat ~ food for change 

I found amazing spinach varieties at a farmers’ market in Sofia and will share 3 delightful recipes to diversify your mornings and lunches. 

Spinach mini pancakes (2 serves)

For the batter: 

beat 2 eggs with a pinch of sea salt

add 6 t.s. Whey (from buffalo mozzarella/ yogurt) & a pinch of baking soda

add 1 handful of finely chopped spinach leaves (washed & dried)

add 4-5 generous t.s. of Spelt flour/grits for a thick batter

For the pan: 

heat a pan with some drops of simple EVOO (a blend does well) 

form mini pancakes with a large tablespoon

Cook at medium heat until golden on both sides, turning them several times to avoid burning

For the final plate:

serve with fresh ricotta, drizzled with some drops of EVOO with intensive green Fruitiness & Pungency. 

I love Early harvests as they radiate the fresh, green, luscious mood of Spring. A Casaliva from Garda lake, a Picual from Andalusia (from younger trees), a Makri from north-east Greece and a Trilye from Aegean Turkey do wonderful pairing.

Spinach makes a great omelette too, for brunch of lunch, for this occasion I chop it finely too. You know my passion for EVOO, and thus I use this fat for my omelletes. I apply the step by step and rolled technique, which I know from Asia. Pouring a thin layer of the batter and rolling it with the help chop sticks or a wooden spatula. Pouring the rest of the batter and keeping the pan slightly inclined, for the egg mix to spread under the 1^st roll too. And when slightly solid, start rolling again. It tastes wonderful with soft cheeses, like cream cheese, or Gorgonzola dolce. Paired with a pungent peppery EVOO, like a Coratina from Puglia, rich in green almond, chicory, and rosemary sensations😊 or a standard harvest Picual from Andalusia, with some deeper notes of dried sunny herbs, ripe fruit and leaves. 

I would love to hear some of your comments how you prepared the omelette!

Here comes the right moment to make a small reminder about EVOO goodness when preparing our food daily, using various heat techniques in the kitchen (sauteing, braising, frying, baking, simmering, etc.). It is a blessing to bring purity, naturality and a clean taste to our meals, a privilege a few vegetable fats offer us in today’s industrial and “refined” reality. EVOO is a 100% natural juice from the olive fruit extracted at low temperature below 27 °C, and with mechanical means only, without any additives in the process of its production.

It is safe to cook with EVOO because of: 1^st its prevailing content of the monounsaturated Oleic acid (av. 75% and up to 85%), stable by nature to oxidative activity, 2^nd unparalleled content of phenolic compounds with powerful antioxidant activity, 3^rd high smoke point of 190-210 °C and high oxidative stability when exposed to prolonged heat treatment (in average 34 hours), a prerequisite for its high stability to decomposition and releasing harmful components. For more details you could go through some materials with a more focused information…

Souffle with spinach & Camembert (3 serves)

For the souffle mix:

beat 4 eggs with a pinch of sea salt & white pepper

add 2 t.s. fresh ricotta for a creamier texture 

join with care 3 t.s. yogurt aerated with a generous pinch of baking soda

For the baking pot:

cover the walls & bottom of the pot with a layer of butter

pour 2/3 of the soufle mix & arrange ½ of 125g of Camembert cut in pieces 

sprinkle 3 handfuls of chopped spinach leaves (washed & dried)

pour the remaining soufle mix & arrange the other half of the cheese

For the oven:

bake in a preheated oven, at 180 °C for 25 min, covered with a lid 

(I use lower heat + ventilator & place the pot at second level in the oven)

 take out the pot from the oven with attention, remove the lid & place it back at an upper level

switch the oven to grill, for the soufle to get golden roasted, for another 10 min.

For the final plate:

Serve with a large spoon to preserve the creamy texture of the soufle

Pair with a sprinkle of a pungent & robust  EVOO. Here both vibrant green Early harvests do great, as well as EVOOs with riper & sweeter notes, yet with high pungency do amazing too. In the 1^st case to excite the dish with some freshness and green vibes, in the 2^nd to bring depth, new layers and complexity for the palate. For the 2^nd route some high quality Koroneiki, or a Picual, or a Coratina pair nice with the baked flavours of the dish.

The souffle combines well with a spinach salad with pickled Jerusalem artichoke and a fresh loquat fruit. The rich and thick flavours of the spinach leaves pair great with the tenderly fermented earthy flavours of JA, and the mildly sweet and delicately acid rich texture of this Mediterranean fruit. It comes for us in late winter/ spring, much before all of the fruit, and awakens us for the radiant colours of the new sunnier season. 

I make a vinaigrette with mature apple vinegar and a herbaceous EVOO, some white pepper and sea salt to taste. Depending on the number of people and our personal preference we need to adjust the quantities, yet the proportion I love is 1 t.s. EVOO + ½ t.s. vinegar per person. The secret is to beat all together with a whisk to emulsify the vinaigrette and give it a smooth, luscious texture.

I wish you an ultimate delight for the senses!

~ we are what we live ~ we are what we eat ~ food for change ~